How to Live in Italy

 Buongiorno!

We’re coming quickly to an end of our fabulous time in Italy.  You know that our first 2 weeks were really like a vacation - touring around to several different historical sites and  exploring new cities, towns and villages.  But the last 4 weeks we have tried just to settle into one place, Salerno, and to just “live” like a local.  So, Vincenzo and I thought it would be fun to show you a few of the things that are part of the normal day-to-day routine.

What’s more routine than having to do the groceries?  The busy professional must certainly go to the local supermercato.  Everything you need is under one roof.  They’re very much like a North American supermarket, but with a few important differences.

Here’s the bread department at our local.  There’s every kind of bun, loaf , and cracker you can think of.  All unpackaged and in different bins.  But don’t think you can just just pick any of it up and take it to the cashier. No, no, no!  You have WEIGH it, print the price tag and stick it on!!!  

This is a concept that applies to all loose items:  fruit, vegetables, rice, pasta, etc., etc., - you get the drift.  You can REALLY run afoul of the cashier if it’s missing- there’s great harrumphing as she has to get up and go to the nearest scale (which is a misnomer, because they never seem to be close).  Meanwhile everyone in the line behind you is quite clearly displeased.  

This bunker is full of cheese, as you can see.  But it’s all parmesan cheese!  Different weights, grating, etc.  

Across the aisle is the deli counter…with different cheeses, cold meats and premade dishes such as parmigiana melanzane (eggplant parmesan), patate arosti (roasted potatoes) and zucchini and onion.

Here’s the meat counter- looks similar, doesn’t it?  Not really.  If you’re going to buy some steaks, they have them, as we do, prepackaged in a separate bunker.  But if you want something special, you get to select the piece of meat (like what we would call a “standing rib roast”) and watch the butcher use a GIGANTIC meat cleaver to slice off the precise amount you ask for.

So the grocery store is good for a vacationer, or busy moms, professionals and students.  But when you’re

 « in pensione »(retired) you get to choose from these specialists:

The fresh market that’s open every day from 8am -1pm except Sunday, where most bunches of fruits and vegetables for 3 or 4 days for two people are less than 1 euro!  There are about 20 vendors like the one shown above. 

Carmeline Fortunato, is the baker of bread and other délices whose store is right across from the market. She also makes a great parmigiana melanzane. 

Who wouldn’t want to be served by this lovely, smiling face that has a personality to match?

And, if you’re a carnivore like I am, you have to go to a macelleria (butcher shop) like that of Bernardo Girardo

This pic is taken from just outside the shop

Just look at all the choices of fresh meats that are plain, stuffed, rolled, and in balls!  The little breakfast links at the bottom were fabulous!  Everything is fresh, fresh, fresh.

This is another view of the display cases.  There were things in here that I had no idea what they were.  I had to ask.  Even with the little label (and Google translate) I still needed more information to figure it out!

Breaded chicken cordon bleu cutlets on the left, to the right of the jars - strips of beef with parmesan shavings and rocket in a balsamico marinade (delicious!!!), next to the right - cooked tripe (ugh!),  chicken patties in the middle right and breaded chicken rings at the bottom right. 

The middle part of the display features the Polpettione di Pollo.  The only way I can describe this is to say that the exterior has the texture of a meatloaf, but it’s ground chicken.  It is stuffed with spinach and cheese.  And, oh boy, was it ever good.  Bernardo was there to give me cooking tips - put it in a padello (a pot that’s like a Dutch oven), add some chopped carrots, onions and celery, drizzle olive oil over the whole thing and just “poco poco” (very little) salt and some white wine.   Cover and simmer on the stovetop for 25-30 minutes.  

YUM!!!!

I hope you’re getting the idea that there are many, many shops that specialize in a small selection of food items.  As you might expect, there are shops that sell only dry pasta, shops that sell only fresh pasta, shops that sell only chicken products (polleria), shops for seafood (pescheria) and shops for cured meats and other deli products (salumeria).  It’s a bonanza for people who love to cook with the freshest of everything!

And now, moving on from food, I thought I’d throw in a pic of a shop that just made me smile when I saw it.

This is a shop that sells only stuff for cleaning your house!  It’s called « Fresh and Clean »!!! It has every household cleaning product you will ever need!

That wraps up another post on the Suzanna e Vincenzo Travel Blog! 

Ciao for now!